Day one - New Mexico

July 9, 2008

Day one – fm Lakewood NM to Heron SP in north central NM, 352 miles.

On July 9, I put Grace in the kennel and left Lakewood, NM, on my motorcycle (Yamaha FJR 1300) with a faint plan that included spending 3 weeks riding and camping. Counting Grace’s kennel fee, I figure I can travel for $100 a day or less, so long as I sleep on the ground. I can’t afford for us both to stay in a motel ;-) I need to go to South Dakota to get a new driver’s license, so I’ll go there at some point. Why South Dakota? Emery, SD is the location of my mail forwarding service and the street address that gives me a legal residence. SD markets its residency, so this really is legal. Gypsies like me pay SD 3 percent sales tax when we buy vehicles, buy license plates but don’t hang around to use their services, and there is no state income tax – a win/win. Plus vehicle insurance rates are determined based on zip code—nobody lives in SD so the insurance is much less than in Florida.

I left Lakewood in a misty rain, and it continued to rain for three hours. At first, I ignored it – no big deal, light mist, it’ll quit and I’ll dry out fast in the desert. So I rode on, without rain gear. AFTER I was soaked to the skin, I decided that just maybe it wasn’t going to stop and I put on rain gear. When I pulled into Clines Corner, it was still raining. I took a two-hour lunch (the huevos rancheros were great), considered turning left for Utah, and reluctantly returned to the bike in full rain gear. I headed north, up through Santa Fe, and the rain stopped. I continued north through Espanola and Abiquiu and rode through those incredible red/yellow/brown cliffs that mesmerized Georgia O’Keefe. I’ve uploaded photos to Picasa – you can access them at http://picasaweb.google.com/gypsyjudgefjr

Click on My Photos on the left - the pictures are in folders labeled by the day. Double click on the pix if the entire caption doesn't show. You don't have to sign in, or on to view the pixs.

I stopped the first night at Heron Lake State Park in north central NM, near Tierra Amarilla. I knocked on the rig of the camp host and asked about a tent site- the stranger explained where I could set up. I said, “I’m a full-time RV’er. My rig is north of Carlsbad.” He responded, “Oh, you’re Laura.” Turns out the camp hosts are Rusty and Mary Irons, close friends of Helen F., Lou, and Eleanor from Lakewood. So, my reputation precedes me. What a small, crazy, friendly world.

At dark the coyotes yelped. I had to get up to pee two times during the night, under the stars, in the dust ‘cause the bath house was a long way and I had no neighbors. I don’t remember a clearer, brighter blanket of heaven. Early Thursday morning, wild geese honked as they flew, announcing my place in this amazing Universe.

I have a muscle in my shoulder that’s tight, a tweak in my right low back, and a smile in my heart. The sun has begun to lift above the mountains; it’s chilly. Long pants, long sleeve t-shirt, fleece jacket, and my windbreaker. Another RV’er from Lakewood, John White is also in the park. He’s going to fix me breakfast - coffee, eggs, and bacon.

Then I’m heading north.